Learn expert headshot photography tips from NYC photographer Joe Jenkins. Discover gear, lighting, and posing techniques for professional portraits.
Headshot Photography Tips: Joe Jenkins’ Complete Guide
In today’s image-driven world, headshot photography has become a booming business. Whether it’s for corporate professionals, actors, or entrepreneurs, everyone needs a high-quality headshot that reflects confidence and authenticity. In a competitive market like New York City, the demand remains strong — even with the growing popularity of AI-generated portraits.
As a seasoned NYC photographer, I’ve spent years capturing portraits that tell real human stories. While artificial intelligence tools are improving rapidly, there’s still something irreplaceable about genuine expression, skilled lighting, and human connection. If you’re considering starting your own headshot photography business or simply want to refine your craft, this comprehensive guide will walk you through everything — from camera gear and lighting to working with clients and building your portfolio.
The Real Value of Headshot Photography
Many people assume photography is expensive because of the cost of professional cameras and lenses. But compared to most businesses, the startup investment is quite modest.
I remember once visiting a local coffee shop with my camera gear. The owner asked how much my equipment cost — about $4,700 total, including a $1,200 lens and a $3,500 camera body. He was shocked. But when I asked him what it cost to renovate his café and buy all his equipment, he paused — and simply said, “Point taken.”
The truth is, headshot photography offers an incredible return on investment. Once you master your tools and develop your artistic eye, your work can generate a steady income while allowing creative freedom.
Getting Started: Essential Headshot Photography Gear
When it comes to equipment, you don’t need a studio full of gear to start taking professional headshots. What truly matters is understanding light, composition, and how to make your subject comfortable.
Let’s go through the essentials.
Camera and Lens Selection
At the very least, you need a camera body and a lens. These two basic tools are enough to get started with photography and begin building your portfolio. You’ll rely mostly on natural or environmental lighting, but that’s perfectly fine when you’re starting out.
The key is to shoot in evenly lit conditions — ideally in shaded outdoor areas or near large indoor windows. Avoid strong sunlight and harsh lights. They can create deep shadows and make the photo look less flattering.
The Ideal Focal Length for Sharp, Natural Headshots
An 85mm lens is a popular choice for headshots because it gives the face a natural and flattering look. This focal length provides a natural perspective and avoids distortion that wider lenses create. Anything from 85mm to 135mm typically works beautifully for headshots.
Some of my go-to lenses include:
⦁ Sigma 85mm f/1.4 ART (F-Mount)
⦁ Nikkor 70–200mm f/2.8 (F-Mount)
⦁ Fujinon 110mm Macro (for Fuji GFX 100S)
These lenses produce crisp, flattering portraits with creamy background blur — ideal for professional headshots.
Modifying and Controlling Light
Once you’re confident shooting with natural light, it’s time to shape and control it. Light is everything in photography — it defines mood, texture, and depth. A simple reflector can instantly elevate your images.
Using Reflectors Effectively
Reflectors come in various shapes and finishes — circular, square, or rectangular — with white, silver, and gold surfaces being most common.
When I first started, I used the silver side thinking it would “add more light.” But I quickly learned that getting a few great shots is better than having lots of average ones. Silver reflectors produce hard, specular light — great for fashion shoots but often too harsh for natural headshots.
The white side, however, bounces soft, natural-looking light back onto your subject, reducing shadows and maintaining even skin tones.
Reflector Positioning
Place the reflector slightly below your subject’s chin, angled upwardIt brightens dark areas and gives the face a softer, natural look. Positioning it directly beside the face is common but less effective for natural portraits.
Mastering Headshot Lighting Techniques
Lighting is the foundation of photography. For headshots, good lighting doesn’t just illuminate your subject — it defines their personality.
Let’s cover the essentials every headshot photographer should know.
The Right Light Size for Headshots
Bigger light sources create softer light and give portraits a more natural look.Since headshots typically frame the face and shoulders, you don’t need huge studio lights, but you should aim for a soft, even glow.
In my earlier days, I used modifiers around 38 inches or larger, which provided smooth, even coverage across the face.
Lighting Modifiers: Softboxes and Umbrellas
Two of the most popular tools for headshot lighting are softboxes and umbrellas.
Umbrellas:
Umbrellas come in two main types:
Shoot-through (translucent):
Light passes through the umbrella for soft, diffused illumination.
Reflective (white or silver interior):
Light bounces off the interior and onto the subject.
For beginners, white reflective umbrellas are ideal because they produce soft, gentle light suitable for all skin tones and age groups. Silver interiors, while brighter, can exaggerate texture and shine — especially on mature skin.
Softboxes:
Softboxes create beautifully controlled, directional light. They come in rectangular, square, and octagonal (round) shapes.
For headshots, octaboxes are my go-to choice. The circular catchlights they create in the subject’s eyes look natural and engaging. I typically use softboxes ranging from 34″ to 53″, depending on the style of lighting I want.
Understanding Catchlights and Angles
Catchlights — the tiny reflections of light in your subject’s eyes — bring a portrait to life. Without them, eyes can appear flat and lifeless.
Aim to position your main light at a slight angle above and in front of the subject, so the catchlight appears around the 10 o’clock or 2 o’clock position in their eyes. This gives the impression of natural daylight and draws attention to their expression.
Choosing the Right Software for Retouching
Once your photos are taken, the post-production process turns a good headshot into a professional one.
Many photographers start with Adobe Lightroom, which offers excellent color correction and exposure tools. However, as my career developed, I transitioned to Capture One — a powerful program specifically optimized for portrait and studio work.
Capture One provides exceptional color accuracy, fine-tuned control, and tethering capabilities that make it ideal for professional environments. Its masking tools, when used with a Wacom tablet, allow for seamless skin retouching and precise detail work.
Still, for beginners, Lightroom remains the most accessible option. Once you’re comfortable editing RAW files and managing your workflow, upgrading to Capture One can help you refine your look even further.
Working with People: The Human Side of Headshots
Gear and lighting are essential, but connecting with your subject is what truly makes a headshot memorable. You can have the best equipment in the world, but if your subject looks stiff or uncomfortable, the image won’t work.
When I first started, my biggest challenge wasn’t lighting — it was finding people to photograph. Like many new photographers, I began by asking friends and family. But eventually, I needed a broader range of faces to build a professional portfolio.
How I Built My First Portfolio
I decided to post an ad on Craigslist titled “Free Headshots.” Within days, I was receiving over ten emails a day from actors, musicians, and creatives across New York City.
Offering free sessions helped me achieve two things:
Portfolio Building:
It solved the classic photographer’s dilemma — you need clients to get a portfolio, and a portfolio to get clients.
Experience: Every session taught me more about posing, directing, and handling different personalities.
For those looking for a safer or more professional alternative, try Backstage.com. It’s a trusted platform for actors and models, and a $25 post can easily attract serious clients.
Building Comfort During a Shoot:
A great headshot captures authenticity. The key is to help your subject feel relaxed and comfortable.
Start with friendly conversation before you start shooting.
Give positive feedback during the session.
Offer light direction, but don’t over-control — let their personality shine.
Pricing and Market Insights
In cities like New York, headshot photography can be extremely lucrative. Corporate clients often invest heavily in branding, while actors and professionals need updated portraits regularly.
However, competition is fierce. To succeed, focus on quality, consistency, and customer experience. Happy clients can help spread the word and come back to you for more work.
When setting prices, consider your skill level, market demand, and the value of your time. Even if you start with lower rates, your prices should increase as your work improves and demand rises.
Build Your Photography Brand and Reach More Clients
Being active online makes it easier for people to find your work. A simple, professional online presence can help you build trust and attract new clients.
Create a professional website where you can display your best work, portfolio, and client reviews.
Optimize your site for SEO with keywords like “professional headshot photographer,” “NYC headshots,” or “corporate portrait services.”
Use Instagram, LinkedIn, and Facebook to show your work. Share before-and-after photos, behind-the-scenes moments, and a few stories from your clients.
Networking also plays a huge role — collaborate with modeling agencies, actors’ guilds, and corporate professionals who may refer you to others.
Final Thoughts: The Path to Becoming a Successful Headshot Photographer
Headshot photography can be a really rewarding part of the photography business. It’s a great way to work with people and create photos they can feel confident about. It combines artistry, technical skill, and people connection — all while offering steady demand in today’s professional world.
If you’re serious about pursuing this craft, remember these three fundamentals:
Camera and Lens Selection – Choose gear that fits your style and delivers flattering, distortion-free results.
Lighting Mastery – Understand softboxes, umbrellas, and how to use natural or artificial light to shape your subject.
Human Connection – Engage your clients, make them comfortable, and capture genuine emotion.
By focusing on these areas and continually refining your craft, you’ll position yourself for long-term success in this dynamic field.
The headshot industry will continue to evolve — but genuine artistry, professionalism, and attention to detail will always stand out. Whether you’re photographing actors chasing their next role or executives updating their LinkedIn profiles, remember: every great headshot tells a story.
